What glabridin actually is
Glabridin is the main phenolic compound pulled from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, the licorice plant. On paper it looks unremarkable: a small isoflavan flavonoid with the formula C20H20O4 and a molecular weight of 324.37 g/mol (CAS 59870-68-7, EINECS 611-908-7). In practice it is one of the few plant-derived actives that cosmetic chemists keep reaching for when they want a brightening result without the irritation that comes with stronger acids.
The molecule carries benzopyran rings and a hydroquinone-like group, which is what gives it both its tyrosinase-blocking behaviour and its antioxidant punch. Most material on the market is supplied as a white to off-white crystalline powder at high purity (≥98%); lower-purity grades (10%–40%) show up as pale yellow or brown and are used where colour is less critical.
Typical specification
| CAS | 59870-68-7 |
| Molecular formula | C20H20O4 |
| Molecular weight | 324.37 g/mol |
| EINECS | 611-908-7 |
| Appearance | White to off-white crystalline powder (≥98%); pale yellow/brown at 10%–40% |
| Melting point | 154–155 °C |
| Density | 1.257 ± 0.06 g/cm³ |
| Solubility | Soluble in DMSO (~5 mg/mL, clear when warmed); sparingly soluble in water |
| Grades | Cosmetics grade; pharmaceutical / research grade |
| Storage | Sealed, protected from light, humidity < 60%; 2–8 °C for HPLC-grade material |
Why formulators choose it
The headline property is the whitening mechanism. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production, and published comparisons put its inhibitory power at roughly 16 times that of arbutin at the same step. Unlike some brighteners that rely on photosensitising pathways, glabridin shows no phototoxicity, which is why it fits daytime routines and leave-on products.
The second property is antioxidant activity. Glabridin scavenges free radicals and, in common bench comparisons, shows stronger antioxidant efficacy than glutathione. That matters for formulators because brightening and anti-ageing claims increasingly sit in the same product, and a single raw material that supports both is easier to stabilise and label.
A third point is mildness. The effect on melanin is real but gentle, so glabridin is used in leave-on serums, essences, and creams where a harsher active would push the formula into irritation territory. It is the kind of ingredient that supports a "no sting, no peel" positioning.
Where it gets used
Cosmetics dominate the demand picture, taking well over 60% of the market for this molecule. The typical jobs are skin tone evening, spot fading, and post-sun repair, usually at low inclusion rates (formulators commonly keep the active below 1% and reference 3 mg as a practical ceiling for sensitive formats).
Food and functional beverage use is the smaller but steady channel. Here glabridin works as a natural antioxidant in health products, and dosing has to follow local GB standards rather than cosmetic guidelines. We supply both grades, but the price gap between industrial (cosmetic) and pharmaceutical (research) material can be close to threefold, so specifying the right grade up front avoids paying for purity you will not use.
Pairing glabridin with other actives
Glabridin rarely works alone on a spec sheet. It is often combined with other brightening and supporting actives, and the combinations below are the ones we see most often in customer briefs:
- Kojic acid (CAS 501-30-4) – a second tyrosinase route that complements glabridin in wash-off and leave-on brighteners.
- Alpha-Arbutin (CAS 84380-01-8) – the more stable arbutin form; glabridin's 16x comparison is measured against arbutin, so the two are natural shelf partners.
- L-Ascorbic Acid (CAS 50-81-7) – vitamin C antioxidant support that helps protect the formula and the skin barrier.
- Squalane (CAS 111-01-3) – the emollient carrier that improves spread and helps the active sit on the skin.
- GHK-Cu Copper Peptide (CAS 49557-75-7) – for combined brightening and repair positioning.
- Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate (CAS 137-16-6) – a mild surfactant for cleansers that carry the brightening active.
- Citric Acid Anhydrous (CAS 77-92-9) – pH adjustment and chelation to keep the emulsion stable.
For the active itself, see the Glabridin product page for current assay, pack size, and COA details.
Handling and buyer notes
Glabridin is a powder and is handled like most cosmetic raw materials: keep it sealed, away from light, and below 60% relative humidity. Working material for HPLC or research use should sit at 2–8 °C; cosmetic-grade stock is fine at room temperature as long as the container stays closed. Because the high-purity powder is light sensitive, we ship in opaque or foil-lined packs and recommend transferring to a dark container after opening.
When you request a quote, tell us the grade and the inclusion rate you plan to use. A 0.5% serum active and a 20% food-antioxidant premix are different products, and the documentation we send (COA, MSDS, heavy-metal and solvent residuals) should match the grade you actually formulate with.
Bottom line
Glabridin (CAS 59870-68-7) is a licorice-derived brightener that earns its place through measured tyrosinase inhibition, real antioxidant strength, and a gentle profile that suits leave-on and daytime formats. If your current line leans on arbutin or kojic acid and you want a plant-origin option with a stronger inhibitory number, it is worth a bench trial – ideally paired with one of the emollients or supporting actives linked above.
